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CLIMATE CHANGE

How to Choose Hiking Footwear

Choosing the right footwear may well be the most important decision you make as a hiker or backpacker. The shoes or boots you choose must becomfortable, durable and protective, mile after mile.

Quick Read

1. Shop for boots or shoes based on your planned activity. Mountaineering boots must be much heavier and moresubstantial than day-hiking boots.
2. Learn about the materials used in hiking footwear. Do you need heavy, waterproof materials or lighter-weight, breathable ones?
3. Consider how boot construction will affect your activity.
4. Get your feet measured properly and then try on the boots with the appropriate socks. Take a test walk on a flat surface and then an incline and check for any slippage or discomfort.

What Kinds of Trips Do You Have Planned?

Outdoor footwear can be divided into a few basic categories. Begin your search for the right boots or shoes by focusing on the category that best matches your hiking or backpacking plans.

• Light hiking—These boots (and trail shoes) are designedprincipally for day hiking. They focus on light weight, flexibility, comfort and breathability. As a result, they are less supportive and durable than your other options.
• Hiking and backpacking—These boots (and a few shoes) are designed for on- and off-trail hiking with light to moderate loads.They are more durable and supportive than lightweight hiking boots, but they are still intended primarily for short to moderate trips over easy to moderate terrain.
• Extended backpacking and mountaineering—These boots are designed for on- and off-trail, multiday hiking with moderate to heavy backpacking loads. Durable and supportive, they provide a high degree of ankle and foot protection. Some of these models are designed specifically for rough terrain with heavy backpacking loads. They offer the very best in durability, support and protection. Most are stiff enough to accept crampons for snow/ice travel.

Which Cut Is Right for You?

• Low-cut shoes—These are fine for lightweight travel, but theyprovide less roll-resistance for ankle joints. Plus, on muddy routes or trails filled with scree, grit or sand, it's tough to keep this debris out of your shoes. They're a good choice for lighter loads on maintained trails.
• Mid-cut boots—These wrap around your ankles and offer somecushioning and protection from debris and hazards. They're a smart pick for shorter multiday trips with moderate loads.
• High-cut boots—These give you leverage and ankle support on irregular trails or cross-country routes. If you routinely carry heavier loads, high cuts make good sense. Take the time to break them in before starting a long-distance trip.

Know Your Upper Materials

The materials used in a given boot or trail shoe will affect its weight, breathability, durability and water resistance. Since boots made ofdifferent fabrics can be very similar in performance, however, personal preference is often the key when choosing between them.

• Full-grain leather—This is your best choice for durability and abrasion resistance. It resists water very well, too. It's used primarily in backpacking boots built for extended trips, heavy loads and rugged terrain. Full-grain leather is not as lightweight or breathable as nylon/split grain combinations. It usually requires a break-in period.
• Split-grain leather—This material is usually paired with nylon or nylon mesh to offer lightweight, breathable comfort. Split-grain leather splits away the inner part of the cowhide from the smooth exterior. It tends to be softer on your feet, takes less time to break in and is lighter than full-grain leather. These boots also cost less. The downside is that they are a bit less resistant to water and abrasion than full-grain leather boots (although styles that feature waterproof liners can be just as watertight).
• Nubuck leather—Nubuck is full-grain leather that has been buffed to resemble suede. It is very durable and resists water and abrasion. It usually requires a break-in period.
• Synthetic materials—Polyester, nylon and so-called "synthetic leather" are all commonly used materials. They are lighter than actual leather, break in quickly and usually cost a bit less. The downside is that they may show wear sooner.
• Waterproof linings—Waterproof, breathable membranes (such as Gore-Tex® XCR or eVent®) are bonded to the uppers of many boots to help keep feet dry. These barriers are available in a variety of boot styles, from lightweight hikers to mountaineering models. Boots made with Gore-Tex keep feet dry in wet environments with a slight trade-off in breathability.

TIP: The waterproofness (or water resistance) of your hiking boots depends significantly on how well you treat them. Be sure to follow all care instructions that come with your boots so that they can perform well and last a long time.

Construction and Components

Upper Construction

The more seams a boot or shoe has, the higher the risk for leaks and blow-outs. Leaking occurs when water seeps through the needle holes or spaces between the boot panels. Blow-outs occur when general wear, repeated flexing or a snag causes a stitch to break and two panels to separate. In general, the fewer seams an upper has, the more water-resistant and more durable it will be.

The Connection Between Upper and Sole

Hiking boot soles these days are typically cemented to the rest of the boot. Faster and less expensive than traditional stitching methods, cementing creates durable, long-lasting bonds (how long depends upon the process and specific adhesives used).

Can Footwear Be Resoled?

The answer is yes for mountaineering boots and most backpacking boots. It's no for most light hiking footwear, because new-generation materials and designs lack the structure necessary to accept new soles. Plus, resoling can be costly, making it less feasible for lower-cost footwear. When in doubt, have a local cobbler evaluate your footwear. If none is available, one option is Seattle-based cobbler Dave Page (davepagecobbler.com).

Midsole Materials

Midsoles of hiking footwear usually feature EVA (ethylene vinyl acetate) or polyurethane. Both absorb shock and provide cushioning. Generally, EVA is a bit lighter, while polyurethane is a little more durable.

Support Components

Hidden inside hiking footwear are a variety of components designed to lessen trail shock and provide support for your feet.

• Shanks—These are inserts made of steel, plastic or nylon. They add load-bearing stiffness to the midsole of a shoe or boot.
• Plates—These thin, semiflexible inserts serve two functions: 1) They help stabilize your forefoot, and 2) They protect your feetfrom getting bruised by roots or uneven rocks.
• TPU—This stands for thermoplastic urethane. It's commonly used in flexible plates or other shoe stabilization devices.

Outsole Materials

Most outdoor footwear uses rubber or Vibram® rubber outsoles. Vibram brand outsoles are well-known for their grip and durability.

Get the Right Fit

Once you've narrowed down your options to a handful of boots or shoes, the best way to decide between them is to try them on and give them a test drive. A good fit involves:

• Foot length
• Foot width
• Volume

The first two can be measured with a Brannock Device. The third, volume, refers to the space your foot occupies, top to bottom, inside a shoe. A high-volume foot may feel snug in some footwear; a low-volume foot may feel too loose. If you have a high-instep (the top of your foot near your ankle), you likely have a high-volume foot.

Different brands and styles will fit different combinations of width and volume. A good fit allows you to easily wiggle your toes inside the footwear. Feet should not slide around inside footwear. Good-fitting boots hold feet firmly without binding.

When trying on shoes, walk on inclines and declines. If you detect heel-lift on inclines, adjust the tension of your laces atop the instep and try the incline again. On declines, toes should not feel too compacted in the toebox.

TIPS: Bring along a pair of your own hiking socks when trying on shoes in store. And it's best to try on footwear later in the day; feet tend to swell a bit during the day.

Boot Care Basics

Keep your boots and trail shoes clean between uses by brushing off dirt and mud as both can ruin leather over time. Most fabric boots and shoes can be washed on the outside with mild soap and water. Avoid using detergent.

If your boots get drenched, stuff them loosely with newspaper and dry them in a warm place. Never rush the drying process by placing them neara fire, heater or other heat source.

Boots need to be conditioned from time to time, especially if they're made of leather. This is true whether you hike in dry, hot conditions or wet, temperate ones.

Atlantic Puffin Dish

Atlantic Puffin

Atlantic Puffin is a sea bird that belong to the Alcidae (auk) family. They are widely found across the atlantic. It have pnguin-like coloring but they sport a colorful beak that has led some to dub them the “sea parrot” or “clowns of the sea”. Other names:

• common puffin
• bottle-nose
• coulterneb
• Labrador auk
• large-billed puffin
• pope
• tammy norie

Personally, i known them as “flying penguins.” During the winter it beak fades to a drab grey and blooms with color again in the spring-suggesting that it may be attractive to potential mates.

Most of their live they live at sea, resting on the waves when not swimming. Their wings are use to stroke underwater with a flying motion which make them excellent swimmer. They can go to depths of 200 feet or 61 meters, though only for 20 or 30 seconds under water. Puffins typically hunt small fish like herring, sand eels, hake and capelin. They supplement their meals by drinking saltwater.

In the air, puffins are surprisingly fleet flyers. By flapping their wings up to 400 times per minute they can reach speeds of 55 miles or 88 kilometers an hour.

Atlantic puffin land on north Atlantic seacoasts and islands to form breeding colonies each spring and summer. Iceland is the breeding home of perhaps 60% of the world’s Atlantic puffins. The bird create burrows about 90 cm or 3 feet and often select precipitous rocky cliff tops to build their nests, which they line with feathers, seaweed and grasses.

April to mid-August is breeding season for puffins. When a puffin is around 3-5 years old, it will choose a partner at sea to mate with for life. Some pairs of puffins reunite within the colony and exhibit a special behavior known as “billing” where the two birds rub their beaks together. This often draws an excited crowd of other puffin to watch.

Females lay a single egg, and both parents take turns feeding it by carrying it by carrying small fish back to the nest in their relatively spacious bills for about 40 days. Atlantic puffins have the ability to carry several fish in their breaks at one time. They push the fish to the back of their mouth with their tongue, where ridges at the top of their bill secure the fish in place. In general, they can hod about 10 fish in their beak at once.

The chick stays in the burrow until it is able to fly. The young puffin uses a toilet area towards the front of the burrow away from the nest to stay clean. It cannot risk its feathers soiled and ruining the waterproof protection they provide. After 45 days, they chick leaves the burrow and spends 3-5 years at sea learning about feeding places and choosing a mate.

In the wild, puffin can live about 20 years. Their main predator is the great black-backed gull, which can capture a puffin mid-flight or swoop in on a puffin on the ground. Herring gulls are also a threat because they steal puffins’ fish (sometimes right from their mouth), and they pull puffin chicks or eggs from their nests.

Puffin couples often reunite at the same burrow site each year. It is unclear how these birds navigate back to their home grounds. They may use visual reference points, smells, sounds, the Earth’s magnetic fields-or perhaps even the stars.

Conservation Status

With 6 million alive today, Atlantic puffins are not endangered. But some populations have been drastically reduced. Puffin colonies are threatened by overfishing, which causes a shortage of food for adults to feed their young. Oil spills also pose a danger. Oil not only destroys puffins' waterproofing, it also makes them sick when they clean it off their feathers. Finally, global warming adversely affects puffins, who are adapted to living in waters about 0-20°C (32-68°F) and catching fish who are also adapted to those colder temperatures. Global warming also causes rising sea levels, which could flood out puffins' breeding grounds.

What You Can Do to Help

If you would like to help puffins, you can help curb global warming by engaging in environmentally-responsible activities like using energy-efficient appliances and light bulbs, cutting down your carbon emissions, and recycling. You can also adopt a puffin from Audubon Society's Project Puffin.

Atlantic Puffin Distribution